Chrysanthemums Korean multiflora groups are a real breakthrough in the field of plant breeding. They represent a perfectly even ball, strewn with flowers from the end of August-September so that sometimes the leaves are not visible. Inveterate flower lovers who "bring to the garden" all the newest and most interesting, they appeared several years ago. And their popularity immediately began to gain momentum. To date, many different varieties have been bred, with the exception of blue and blue cultivars.
Variety to variety - discord
What is especially interesting is that these chrysanthemums turn into a blooming ball in just a few months - they grow from one small cutting, cut from the mother plant in February-March, and without any pinching. The ability to form an ideal spherical habit is genetically inherent in a plant. Moreover, they are more than appropriate in the garden even before flowering, because "spherical" is clearly traced in young chrysanthemums already in July. Well, all that they are capable of, the plants will be shown in September-October.
I will immediately make a reservation about the choice of a multiflora variety for my climatic zone. Early varieties, the flowering of which is "scheduled" at the end of August - the very beginning of September, should be bought by residents of central Russia and to the north, in order to have time to admire the flowering of plants in the ground before the real cold weather. But for the southern regions, medium and late varieties are suitable, because when early varieties bloom in their strip, they will burn out very quickly in the still active sun, and will not show their real color and stature. And September varieties will delight southerners until November.
Nuances of soil content
How big your blooming hemisphere grows depends on the time of planting in the ground. The earlier, the larger the diameter and height the ball will grow. In the southern regions, it is advisable to plant chrysanthemums in April, in the middle lane - in May, but still focusing on the weather. If the planting is delayed until mid-June, then the chrysanthemum will not gain the declared size and will bloom several weeks later.
Landing... When planting in a flower garden, along a garden path or as a curb, you need to maintain a distance of 50-70 cm between the plants. Yes, at first they will be small, and then, when they take root, they will grow by leaps and bounds.
The landing site must be very sunny. In the shadow of a perfect ball, it will not work - the plant will stretch out. And if in the southern regions the plant survives, if the sun's rays fall on it for at least half a day, then in the northern regions they should be illuminated by the sun all day.
Immediately after planting the cuttings in a loose, permeable soil, they should be shaded for a while until they take root. When planting, it is advisable to carefully roll over the root ball without disturbing the root system.
Top dressing... At the very beginning of the growing season, when the cuttings have just begun to grow, it is better to support the chrysanthemum with nitrogen fertilizers. Then, during the active growth of shoots in July - nitrogen-potassium. And only later, in the budding phase - phosphono-potassium. But never overfeed the plants! Fertilizer should be applied after watering or rain.
Watering... By the way, these chrysanthemums are very fond of "drinking". Due to the lack of moisture, the stems will untimely lignify and flowering will noticeably deteriorate.
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Winter content
Shelter... Autumn will bring the inhabitants of central Russia and those who live to the north the eternal question - should multiflora be left to winter in the ground? In settlements south of the Moscow region, this chrysanthemum can overwinter under a good air-dry shelter. But what is especially important - if it is planned to shelter the mother liquor, then it should be planted in a place where water does not stagnate. Chrysanthemum easily dies from getting wet. But keep in mind that a bush over 3 years old will no longer give an ideal shape, it will fall apart, or even begin to rot.
Storage of mother liquors... In regions with a harsh climate, it is necessary to dig up multiflora annually, keep the mother plants in the cellar, basement, veranda, warmed logs at low positive temperatures of + 2-4 ° C in winter (even if the earthen lump freezes a little, it is not scary), and cuttings should be carried out in early spring. Each stalk will give rise to a blooming ball in the current season.
To carry out this procedure with the least labor costs, even in September, before frost, the mother plants of chrysanthemums can be transplanted from open ground into large pots and left to bloom outside. Do not shake off the soil from the roots during transplantation. If there is a threat of frost, the plants should be transferred to a greenhouse or other bright, cool room. They will delight with flowering indoors for a long time.
Then the above-ground part must be shortened to 8-10 centimeters and the mother plant must be removed directly in the pot for storage.
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If there is nowhere to keep a blooming or even one that did not have time to bloom, then you can immediately prune and remove the mother plant for storage. But there is no need to rush into this. If the chrysanthemum is removed for storage too early, then white, chlorophyll-free growth will quickly appear in the dark cellar ahead of time, and this phenomenon is undesirable. The one that is very thin will have to be removed, but not at the very root. By the way, during the winter thaws, queen cells can also actively grow overgrowth. If this happens, you need to try to somehow lower the temperature and treat the plants with the Athlete drug, which inhibits growth. If all else fails, then take it out into the light and additionally illuminate the plants. In this case, you will have to cut it earlier.
During storage (by the way, these chrysanthemums should "sleep" for at least 2 months), the soil in the pots should be slightly moistened, but not poured. And make sure that no mold appears on the soil and cut stems.
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Cutting chrysanthemum multiflora
Ideally, queen cells should be taken out of storage in February, so that by the end of the month or by the beginning of March, they have already acquired green "fat" shoots that can be cuttings. The room for germination should already be warmer (it is advisable to increase the temperature gradually - up to + 15 ... + 20оС) and as light as possible so that the shoots do not stretch out.
When the mother plant is ready for grafting, it is necessary to remove stem cuttings 5-6 cm long with 3-4 internodes from it with a sharp pruner. And all the same - these will be apical cuttings or middle ones - all the same, they will eventually form a ball. The lower leaves should be removed (this freed internode will be located in the soil). If there are more than 4-5 leaves on the handle, the extra ones should be removed. As I cut the cuttings, I put them in the water.
Then I dip the lower internode of each cutting into Kornevin's powder. In a slightly compacted and pre-moistened light substrate, poured into 100-gram disposable cups, I make a depression with a small stick, and immerse a chrysanthemum stalk there, slightly squeezing the ground around the stalk. You can use seedling cassettes with a small cell - as it is more convenient for anyone. The remaining mother liquor is sent to the compost heap.
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The planted cuttings should be sprayed with water from a spray bottle and covered with foil, arranging a greenhouse. But you cannot wrap up the cuttings tightly. Boxes or cassettes with cuttings should be placed in the same conditions as the mother liquors, but not in the sun itself. And do not forget to spray the cuttings daily. And sometimes you have to water them a little.
After a couple of weeks, the regrown roots of the cutting will entwine the earth in the cell or appear through the walls of the plastic cup. Watering should become more intensive, and the shelter from the boxes will gradually need to be removed. And as it grows, after another week or two, transfer the young chrysanthemums into a larger container.
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With a cutting height of about 10 cm, the crown can be pinched for insurance. You will not need to do this in the future.
Chrysanthemum can be divided
You can grow full-fledged globular plants for flowering this year and dividing the mother bush. It's even easier that way. In March-April, when the growth will be "like a forest", you need to carefully divide it (possibly with a sharp knife) into parts so that it has roots, and plant it in a pot, and in the southern regions in April - immediately into the ground, pinching the top of the shoot.
Read about growing chrysanthemums in a pot culture in the article Potted chrysanthemums.
