Useful information

If iris diseases happened

Iris Chegem Waterfalls

The ending. The beginning is in the article How to negotiate with bearded irises.

Even with the observance of almost all the requirements of agricultural technology, it still happens that irises get sick. The fight directly against diseases consists in their timely identification and treatment, since a diseased plant becomes a source of pathogens for others. And if you do not get rid of it, under favorable conditions, the disease spreads quickly and can affect a large mass of bushes. Carriers are wind, insects, birds, water.

Cocktails for prevention

It is always easier to prevent diseases than to cure a sick pet. For prophylaxis, I carry out regular spraying with "cocktails". I select the composition of the "cocktail" according to the growing season of the plants.

  • The first spraying after spring cleaning is carried out with Previkur on the "potatoes", grabbing the stem of the stem.
  • When the plants start to grow, I treat with a mixture of Epin + Topaz + systemic insecticide.
  • I use this mixture again after 2 weeks. It increases the energy of growth, works great against fungal diseases, insects.
  • Several times every 2 weeks I further treat it with an insecticide in order to prevent the appearance of thrips and iris flies.
The foliage is healthy, and this is the key to a good growth of stem roots!

What does it look like to attack

After the snow cover has melted and until late autumn, I regularly inspect the plants. I think the most dangerous disease of irises is wet rot, or it is also called bacterial rot, bacteriosis. The causative agents are bacteria of several groups (Erwinia aroidea, or Pseudomonas iridis) that hibernate in the soil or on plant debris.

It appears most often after the snow melts and in the summer after flowering, during the period of active growth of young daughter links. Excess nitrogen in the soil contributes to the development of the disease. Massive defeat is provoked by thickened plantings and dampness.


The infection enters the tissues through damaged leaf bases (for example, after spring frosts) or the root collar (with deep planting). It usually starts with a small area at the base of 1–2 outer leaves. The damaged parts become soft. Then the damaged leaves turn yellow, dry and are easily pulled out by the tip.

The disease develops very quickly. Rot spreads deep into the fan of leaves, and then into the stem root. Tissues soften and emit a strong unpleasant odor. With a strong defeat, the leaves lodge. With high humidity and favorable temperatures, the bush can completely rot out in a few days.

Surgical intervention

When identifying a diseased plant, it is important to determine the extent of the damage. Be sure to shake off the soil and check the condition of the tuber from all sides, including under the abdomen. It is important! Often you treat from above along the back, and the focus is already below.

Where to start? After examination, I determine what to do: heal on the spot or dig up the plant. If the rot is insignificant, then I fly on the spot. If most of the tuber is captured, and the variety is valuable, then I dig it up. On the spot, I remove all the rotten mass. I do this either with a teaspoon, the edges of which are slightly sharpened, or I cut with a sharp knife to healthy tissue. Important! Destroy all remnants!

Stop and neutralize

Further, there may be different options. If it is a hot sunny day and the cuts are open to the sun, you can leave to dry without processing. The sun will kill everything on the surface.

You can process the slices, but in damp, cloudy, cool weather, this must be done. How do I process? I use different options.

  • Treatment hydrogen peroxide... Sold in a pharmacy, not expensive, in a convenient bottle with a fine tip, convenient.
  • After the peroxide stops foaming, I lubricate the cut site with a brush either with a mixture alcohol solution of chloramphenicol with brilliant green, or sprinkle with powder metronidazole.

The soil around the plant can be shed hydrogen peroxide or bleach solution, whiteness.

Irises are treated with an alcohol solution of chloramphenicol with brilliant green.

Resuscitation of the seemingly hopeless

If the iris stem is severely damaged, I wash it, cut everything to healthy tissue, while sometimes only a piece of the stem with a healthy bud remains. But he can give us a start, if the variety is valuable.

Further, it is better to soak the rest of the planting material in potassium permanganate or bleach, and then apply everything the same as in the previous case.

It is necessary to plant such an iris in a new place in a mixture of soil and sand. It is better to remove the soil from the remaining hole, sprinkle it with fresh, or spill it bleach... I have such nurses (see photo).

During the autumn transplant, I cut and dry the fans, and then dip them in a thick solution of Fitosporin-M, lightly dry them and plant them.  


The remainder of the stem root purchased and rotted in the fall - one bud in the spring gave rise to a sprout. The variety is saved!

Processing a plant from a parcel

Plants received by mail must also be prepared for planting. After all, there is always a chance of bacteria development in the package - the plants breathe there, which means it is warm and humid there. I carefully examine the resulting plants, cut and process the sections at the slightest suspicion. I remove everything dry, rotten, part of the roots up to the abdomen - old roots are needed solely to keep the fan in the soil. Iris quickly grows new roots, and feeds on stocks of fleshy stem root before they grow back. Soak it in a solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, dry it. And then in Fitosporin-M and send it to the soil.

If the disease rages in the summer - go to the pharmacy

With prolonged warm and rainy weather in summer, a massive bacteriosis disease can occur, including on peduncles. In this case, I identify all diseased plants, cut and spray the plants with a solution Levomycetina at the rate of 1 tablet per 1 liter of water. You can alternate antibiotics, I also used Doxycycline... In such weather, in the fall, powdering and dusting the leaf fans with wood ash, to which I add Fundazol or Colloidal sulfur.

Don't spread the infection!

Very important! Equipment used when working with diseased plants must be disinfected. Rinsing and drying in the open sun is easiest. When mass transplanting and dividing bushes, I use several knives, periodically change them, soaking them in disinfectant solutions. And, of course, after working with a sick plant, I wash my hands!

Iris Wearing RubiesIris Luscious Lace
Iris Debrenee

Photo by the author

Special issue of the newspaper "My favorite flowers"

"Summer colors: peonies, irises, lilies, daylilies", Nizhny Novgorod