Useful information

Daffodil care. Spring

Tete-a-Tete from the cyclamen group In the conditions of our middle lane, seedlings of daffodils appear approximately in mid-April, the timing varies depending on the conditions of the current growing season. Daffodils are recognized as a culture that is quite unpretentious to growing conditions and easy to care for, but every gardener knows that in the spring he will not only have to admire the flowers, but also work intensively on his site. What needs to be done first of all, what to look for when spring care for daffodils?

At the first opportunity (after the snow cover has melted and the land has partially dried out), the site with the plantings is inspected; if the plants have been covered since autumn, the shelter is removed as soon as the threat of night frosts has passed (seedlings and buds can only be damaged by negative night temperatures, –10 ... –15 ° С, for a long time). The shelter is removed carefully, trying not to damage the emerging seedlings. From damaged or broken off seedlings, deformed plants develop.

When examining, you need to pay attention to the presence or absence of seedlings. Late varieties or varieties planted later than the recommended dates, respectively, and grow and bloom later than early and mid-flowering varieties or varieties planted at the optimal time. Therefore, do not panic if you notice that there are no seedlings in some places, this does not necessarily mean that the bulbs have died. If you need to make sure that the plants have not died, you can carefully dig out a layer of earth with your hands at the planting site. In the presence of seedlings in the ground and in a dense bulb, the plant did not die. If the bulb is soft, rotten, it must be urgently removed to prevent an outbreak of the disease.

Signs of disease must be differentiated from signs of damage by cutting tools.

After a snowy winter, with rapid snow melting, prolonged stagnation of water on the soil surface can be observed. This adversely affects the condition of the bulbs, they are easily affected by fungal diseases, rot and die. In problem areas with a high standing of groundwater, drainage systems are arranged in advance (you can simply dig ditches around the perimeter of the site). If the flood is unexpected, the water is diverted by digging small grooves.

To prevent the outbreak of fungal diseases, it is necessary to inspect the seedlings. Plants with signs of disease (twisted, deformed, yellow-brown seedlings, dry) are removed along with the bulb. If the lesion is very large, you can treat the plants with a solution of pesticides (following the instructions and precautions). Signs of disease should be differentiated with signs of damage from cutting tools (hoes, hoes, etc.).

Despite the fact that rodents (in particular, mice) do not damage the bulbs of daffodils, "mouse" dogs tear the ground to a depth of half a meter, while the bulbs are not at all where they were planted or on the surface of the ground. The disturbed order can be restored: plant the bulbs in the right place (there is a chance that they are not damaged by frost), bury the dug holes.

When the land on the site dries out, you can start loosening. In those places where there are no seedlings on the soil surface for some reason, loosening is postponed so as not to damage the plants. The best option is to combine loosening and root fertilization with mineral fertilizers. The first two dressings are carried out during the period of regrowth and during the budding period with a nitrogen-containing fertilizer, the third dressing - during flowering, with a complex fertilizer. If possible, after applying fertilizers, the soil is watered, or root and foliar dressings are alternated.

Plants with signs of viral and fungal diseases must be removed along with the bulb.Fertilization
Loosening and weedingThalia - a cultivar from the Triandrus group
Little Gem is one of the earliest tubular varieties.

Watering not only helps nutrients from the composition of mineral fertilizers to penetrate into the root system zone, but also significantly affects the appearance of plants (peduncle height, flower size and brightness) and somewhat prolongs flowering.At the same time, watering should not be with strong pressure, so as not to break plants and erode the ground. Surface irrigation is ineffective; it is necessary that the soil is soaked evenly to the depth of the root system. A sprinkler is best suited for this purpose.

Unfortunately, in the spring, not only the desired and necessary plants grow and bloom, but also unplanned weeds. It is better to remove them as soon as they appear, while they have not yet gained strength. A more advantageous option is if the daffodils are planted on the lawn or the soil around the plantings is decorated with a coating (pebbles, bark, colored sawdust). In this case, weeds do not appear or appear in single quantities and it is easy to fight them.

During the flowering period, our main task is to admire the beautiful flowers in our flower beds. But if the purpose of growing daffodils is to maintain the purity of the variety, it is necessary to remove the impurities of other varieties (dig up with the bulb). The admixture can get into the variety both during planting and during pre-sale preparation (if you buy planting material from hands or from unknown companies).

When growing daffodils for a bouquet, cutting is carried out in the budding phase (the bud has already been colored, but the flower has not yet blossomed). If you are deliberately growing daffodils for planting stock or bulbs for forcing, the blooming flowers must be removed. In flower beds, ugly dried buds are cut (sometimes with a part of the peduncle) to preserve the decorative appearance of the plantings, and the leaves remain green for about a month and do not spoil the impression of a flower bed, mixborder or rabatka.