Useful information

Chubushniki: planting, pruning, feeding

Chubushnik is by nature shade-tolerant, undemanding to soil fertility, drought-resistant. At the same time, in the shade, it stretches out and blooms sparingly, and on barren dry soils, its bushes and flowers become smaller. The optimum are medium and light loamy, humus-rich and moisture-rich soils. Location - open or slight lateral penumbra. For thermophilic varieties, it is advisable to choose protected locations with light soil and good drainage.

Chubushniki are suitable for single and group plantings, compositions. Tall varieties are used for free-growing hedges.

Chubushnik Lemoine (Philadelphus x lemoinei)

 

Landing

A plant with an open root system is planted only before the leaves open. A seedling planted in spring with unfolded leaves may die. In autumn, plants with an open root system are planted from September 10 to October 10, the plants take root well during autumn planting.

The soil mixture should consist of leafy earth, humus, sand (3: 2: 1). Drainage - crushed stone and sand with a layer of 15 cm. The distance between plants in groups is 0.5-1.5 m, in a single-row hedge, plants are planted every 0.6-0.8 m, in well-lit places. Planting depth is 50-60 cm, the root collar should be at ground level, since it can rot in a deeper position.

Pruning

The flowers of the chubushnik are formed on short lateral shoots of last year's growths. The shrub needs to be pruned to maintain optimal height and to ensure the annual formation of young shoots in the lower part of the crown. Uncircumcised bushes very soon have many small branched growths with a small number of bad flowers.

When planting a mock orange in autumn or early spring, it is necessary to cut off weak growths and shorten the main branches to a strong bud (or a pair of buds). During the growing season on the bush, several strong growths are formed in the lower part of the crown and many side branches on the main stems. All weak or misplaced shoots must be trimmed so that the crown is symmetrical.

In the second year in June, the shrub blooms on last year's increments. At the end of flowering, strong shoots are formed from the base of the plant in the lower part of the crown. In July, immediately after flowering, it is necessary to cut off the generative shoots to the powerful growths located below and remove all weak stems. In October, strong young growths grow up to 1 m, lateral branches are formed on them, which will bloom the next year. In the third and subsequent years in July, immediately after flowering, the faded stems are cut to the strong young growths located below. If the bush has become thickened, then it is necessary to cut 20-25% of the old stems to the base.

Chubushnik maiden (Philadelphus x virginalis)

 

Top dressing and watering

It is recommended to pour one bucket of slurry on one large bush annually (1:10). In the 2nd year after planting, mineral fertilizers are applied in the spring: 15 g of urea, 30 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium sulfate, which are diluted in 10 liters of water and consumed for 1-2 plants. After flowering 1 sq. m give 20-30 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate or 100-150 g of wood ash.

Chubushniki are demanding on moisture. With prolonged drought, the leaves lose their turgor, which is restored after rains or watering. In June - July, in the trunk circle for 1 sq. m should be poured out 20-30 liters of water. When planting, 1-2 buckets are poured onto the bush.